🔗 Share this article

When compiling a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected gastronomic guide. This accolade has made the family completely shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their humble place achieving such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to take in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled securely inside.

The wrap is often consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a more intense, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable meals at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Dedication

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this culinary honour.